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Post by tonyb on Jun 24, 2012 22:11:51 GMT
I know you are still getting it up to temp but when you are there, the soot needs to be burnt off the whole of the wfo ceiling.
I'm curious about the smoke, there shouldn't really be any when the wfo is up to temp.
Thick bases generally need lower temps and longer times to cook the dough without burning.
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Post by pete123 on Jun 25, 2012 17:25:36 GMT
Thanks Tony.
I think I built it up & then let it die down a bit too much. Your right I think the temp could have been higher. Also there was a whacking great log put on which I think was too big. I was also using a mixture of wood from pallet up to some first rate superdry hardwood a mate gave me.
Can anyone tell me what is the optimum size of log to put on?
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Post by turkey on Jun 25, 2012 18:09:45 GMT
probably one that lights almost on impact, if not it will smoke and if the fire is not blazing the smoke will not be incinerated and that smoke is lost fuel.
1" square should go up a treat, 2" might be good for a real blaze, but there is probably a ratio on fire heat/mass to log diameter. I was thinking I need a bigger axe to be able to cut each and every log (and they all seem knotty) to a smaller diameter do interested to know what works for other folks, my small curing fires burnt clear but smoked for a good few mins with each new log and needed constant faffing. I suspect if you can let it rage full force it might be less fussy but not sure my smaller diameter oven will accommodate that much larger a fire.
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Post by pete123 on Jun 25, 2012 18:31:12 GMT
Thanks Turkey - keeping the temp up seems the key then. On a separate note I've worked out my thermocouple issues now. I was using the wrong transformer. It was a 12 V A/C one and I needed a DC model. for £1.99 I've discovered these. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Philips-Mains-Adapter-12v-50mA-Output-DC-Plug-/220443513261#ht_512wt_888I give in - the e-bay link didn't work - try typing in "Philips Mains Adapter 12v 50mA Output DC Plug" into google - its some sort of digibox power supply.Read more: ukwoodfiredovenforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=thermocouplesandtempgadgets&thread=249&page=2#ixzz1ypg7EaPtI've cut the end off & it works a treat. I'm not sure exactly how to keep them waterproof though. I thought I would cheat & only bought one transformer and ran a wire in parallel from one to the other. I should have paid more attention in physics class because that doesn't work. You need one transformer (ie. plug) per display. At the price it won't break the bank. 24degrees C. isn't far off & when I waved my weed burner inside the oven it was straight up to 90 or so. Success. Attachments:
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Post by cannyfradock on Jun 25, 2012 19:12:48 GMT
When I try & seal it I might try & miss out the cement from the homebrew? Or perhaps reduce the cement by half as the lime & clay (mixed with the sand) will have more give in them whereas cement sets solid.
There must be usable 200 year old ovens in old manor houses which were made without cement at all.
Pete
I like your idea. It makes common sense. I have missed a fair few of your posts lately !!!
The only reason why I can think that the crack has appeared like that is.....perhaps 2 or 3 vertical joints of the rings of your dome were one on top of the other......plus too much heat was put into the dome too early.......don't worry. It would take a crack an inch wide for your dome to fail. It's good that you have chased out the external crack so as you can fully fill the crack. The same is for the inside.......if you can, scrape out any loose mortar and fill with refractory mortar......as this crack will be in millimeters, you could use the fire-cement that comes in a pot. Someone mentioned a mastic gun for this operation......good idea, and you could always pass a wrung out sponge over the area.....if you can reach it.
As a point of interest......Once I have put enough heat into my dome for pizza cooking I push the embers to the rear/right hand side of the oven hearth....as I'm right handed this leaves the whole rear/left side of the hearth clear and if your pizza peel shuffle turns into a push, the pizza will still stay clear of any embers.
.....one more thing ....the best pizza that is baked in these beauties are Neopolitan pizza's...i.e thin crust (about 3 to 5mm thick)....wait 50 seconds before you turn them, then leoparding should have started to form on the base, then you can slide the peel underneath (love your homemade peel btw) and turn the pizza as required. If you overload a pizza too much and the base is cooked before the top has melted nicely, simply offer the pizza up to the top of the dome for for 7/8/9 seconds...
Terry
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Post by tonyb on Jun 26, 2012 11:33:11 GMT
I don't think the cement adds anything mechanical/structural to the pompeii other than helping construction, once its constructed and assuming you've been able to stagger the vertical joints then the loss of cement here and there is unlikely to affect the domes structural soundness. It does however block holes and helps with thermal properties. I think the 'holy grail' of most wfo builders would be a cement-less dome with fully shaped bricks. On firing I tend to build up the fire with smaller sized pieces of wood and feeding the fire gradually, rarely using snything above 2x2 size, which does mean pretty much continuous monitoring but that's not a problem as it just gives an excuse to hang around the fire drinking, as we all know it is extremely thirsty work
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Post by pete123 on Jun 26, 2012 20:05:47 GMT
Thanks for the tips chaps.
I guess it was a mixture of not staggering the bricks and perhaps being a bit keen with the firing temperature.
I filled the gaps with some Vitcas filler in a mastic tube form this evening. I used the whole tube so I might just top it up with some home-brew. Then the insulation blanket is next. Somehow I'll sandwich it between some foil to make certain no water or moisture gets in to spoil it' qualities.
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Post by faz on Jun 27, 2012 5:36:49 GMT
I am in two minds about foil. I know it will prevent water ingress, but won't it also prevent any water which is on the inside from getting out when you fire the oven??
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Post by bookemdanno on Jun 27, 2012 12:53:01 GMT
Well done on the Thermocouple Meter problem! I didn't even think about the transformer! I'm not too sure about the foil either, to be honest. Its such a vapour barrier. I can only remember a garage roof that i thought had a leak, due to staining on the inner ceiling, which turned out to be condensation on the underside of the felt. When i investigated further, the whole underside of the felt had raindrops of condensation built up on it. This was due to the sealed in air, heating and cooling within the roof space. I'd say that a good breatheable waterproof outer skin, a damp proof membrane under the slab or vermiculite, and laying any countertops with a fall away from the oven should be sufficient. Try to stop as much water as possible getting in, but letting out what does get in, when firing up the oven.
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Post by pete123 on Jun 27, 2012 16:08:29 GMT
Thanks for the advice Faz & Danno.
At the back of my mind I remember Liam from kilnlinings saying something about foil. I've just checked and he was specifically talking about the Calsi board rather than the blanket.
The thought of moisture being trapped had crossed my mind.
Does anyone else have any views on foil to stop the blanket getting wet / damp and the issue of condensation? I'm swaying towards ditching the foil now.
I've bought enough foil to keep me going at Christmas for the next 10 years!
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Post by cannyfradock on Jun 27, 2012 16:58:09 GMT
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Post by pete123 on Jun 27, 2012 18:59:12 GMT
Thanks Terry. Also the FB Plans don't mention foil. I think I'll scrub the idea of foil. A photo of the Vitcas mastic squeezed in. Attachments:
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Post by pete123 on Jun 27, 2012 19:00:23 GMT
And the other side. Attachments:
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Post by pete123 on Jun 27, 2012 19:01:36 GMT
Topped up with some home brew. Attachments:
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Post by pete123 on Jun 27, 2012 19:03:12 GMT
... and to satisfy my OCD the other side with some home-brew as well. Attachments:
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