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Post by kstronach on Jan 8, 2015 10:31:06 GMT
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phi1
valid member
Posts: 91 
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Post by phi1 on Jan 8, 2015 19:43:49 GMT
Keith Thanks for the expert advice and the link. The reclamation yard was Best Demolition in Heathfield, East Sussex. www.bestdemolition.co.uk/index.php/contact-us, the preciseness to be about the same at most yards. They were not interested in negotiating the price. I will defiantly put fire bricks down as the base. Phil |
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Post by kstronach on Jan 8, 2015 23:01:45 GMT
did you go for them then or still looking?
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Post by cobblerdave on Jan 9, 2015 12:29:15 GMT
G'day Keith Thanks for the explanation. It amazes me that you can find a source of recycled firebrick. Its "new and expensive" or the alternatives around theses parts. But when you think about it aluminum silicate firebrick is a fairly modern item and Wood fired ovens were made long before they came along. Can you tell me anymore about engineering brick that I hear about. Of course I googled and found out there's class A and B with a water absorbency rate of 4.5 and 7 per cent respectively which means they can be even used as a waterproof course in the ground. Being super dense they must have a high capability to store heat. I've come across some pics though that show bricks with holes though the middle which means they are extruded and would not be suitable for ovens are they are prone to breaking down and spalding due to there shape . I'm used to dry pressed brick or common as being the suitable shape. Regards dave PS I hope you don't mind your thread being by jacked for a brick discussion. |
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Post by kstronach on Jan 9, 2015 14:52:04 GMT
Yea as you say engineering brick are very dense with a glazed exterior, low water absorption but also offer a high compressive strength. we use them at work mostly for building manhole chambers or in the footings or as the name suggests if the structual engineer specifys them for there greater strength. The only ones I have ever used are the holed ones which as you say are no good at all for our needs but you can get solids and many people over here regard them as the second best to firebrick and I would imagine that being so dense they will have initially been fired to a very high temperature way above pizza oven temps.
As to the storage heater bricks yea there pretty good alternative to fire brick, and im pretty sure theres an oven on here that used them for the whole dome. My only gripe is when we use them for the oven floor im not sure 50mm is quite thick enough, alot of folk them cover them though with quarry tiles which are about 15 or 20mm thick do you have them in oz? Im going to retro fit my oven with them but I'll start another thread on that sometime as I have a few questions!!
Keith
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Post by cobblerdave on Jan 13, 2015 9:54:13 GMT
G'day Keith
Yes we most certainly do have them in Ozz. But what's the reason for using them to resurface your hearth? Surely it can't be adding to the thermal mass?
I've only got a "lite duty" firebrick hearth. Get that fully saturated with heat and its good for the next 48 hours cooking.
Regards dave
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Post by kstronach on Jan 16, 2015 20:00:41 GMT
yea mines good for a day or so after, mainly its just for cosmetic value i think it will look better and as i have the tiles now, figured i might aswell put them to use, when i built the oven i planned to use quarry tile but couldn't source any at the time so i carried on without! not sure weather to dry fit them though or use some kos fire cement or some form of other high temp adhesive and put a few blobs on each one to stick them in place. any thoughts?
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Post by digger on Jan 17, 2015 10:09:41 GMT
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Post by cobblerdave on Jan 17, 2015 10:50:12 GMT
yea mines good for a day or so after, mainly its just for cosmetic value i think it will look better and as i have the tiles now, figured i might aswell put them to use, when i built the oven i planned to use quarry tile but couldn't source any at the time so i carried on without! not sure weather to dry fit them though or use some kos fire cement or some form of other high temp adhesive and put a few blobs on each one to stick them in place. any thoughts? G'day I'd use a notched trowel and put down a layer of 50/50 fine sand and powdered clay as a leveling base. It will be soft enough to allow expansion and contraction. And if you do crack a tile make it easy to replace too Regards dave |
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