phi1
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Post by phi1 on Jun 6, 2015 20:47:37 GMT
Any recommendations as to where to source a 6inch 3foot stainless double lined chimney?
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Post by leetheldc on Jun 6, 2015 21:06:28 GMT
hi phill good to see u back and well and making good progress as far as the heat break you was talking about I would deffo go for it I put one in mine and only had a few fires in there but heat difference between the 2 arches was very noticeablemine was only 8mm wide seperation and if your going to do your tunnel arch from block pavers then u want to keep them as cool as u can the fibre rope and a high heat sealant is the common route I used this method its in my thread as for a twin wall I used selikirk brand as they was the only ones I could find to make an anchor plate for easy fitment to the to of the arch I used this company www.fireboxstoves.co.uk/cat/7/selkirk-twin-wall-insulated-(multi-fuel)-system good luck
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phi1
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Post by phi1 on Jun 7, 2015 16:38:10 GMT
Thanks Lee
I am only going to use the block pavers on the base, I am using these as they are smaller than the fire bricks and will let me put something like quarry tiles on top and keep the base level with the oven floor firebricks.
I did consider firebricks but they are like sponges, I thought they might absorb water which when turning to steam (1800:1) would damage the oven as well as me
Thanks for the link to firebox stove. Looks ideal for my vision of the oven.
Phil
PS I have read your thread in detail and its very helpful. Think your project is much larger than mine, I will still use a 150mm chimney but not as elaborate as yours, you clearly have bricklaying skills I don't possess
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Post by leetheldc on Jun 7, 2015 18:49:07 GMT
Thanks Lee I am only going to use the block pavers on the base, I am using these as they are smaller than the fire bricks and will let me put something like quarry tiles on top and keep the base level with the oven floor firebricks. I did consider firebricks but they are like sponges, I thought they might absorb water which when turning to steam (1800:1) would damage the oven as well as me Thanks for the link to firebox stove. Looks ideal for my vision of the oven. Phil PS I have read your thread in detail and its very helpful. Think your project is much larger than mine, I will still use a 150mm chimney but not as elaborate as yours, you clearly have bricklaying skills I don't possesshi phill sory I thought you where using the block pavers for the arch. are you using house brick for this? you are right about the firebrick unless u keep them water tight some way. firebox was the cheapest I found on a length of pipe but like I said I was stuck with selkirk brand as I wanted the anchor plate if u don't need it and have some over way of attaching the pipe then ebay obviously should provide something cheaper as for my so called brick laying I have only learned from this build. As a ground worker ive done a few manhole build ups with brick and road gullies both un-seen and the odd small retaining wall never anything above my ankle height after building the dome it gave me confidence if man can build a dome he can build any structure within reason and for me time. its taken me ages some days just spent cutting brick for days running before any laying don't be afraid to push the boundaries most on these forums do and surprise there self's I did good luck with the build lee
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Post by cobblerdave on Jun 8, 2015 10:11:14 GMT
G'day phil You looking pretty good. Just point out something with the entrance. You have a flat arch ( not a round) on a single brick wall. The force presses out and where they meet the strait down section off your entrance its the weak point. This is the place where is is more likely to fail at some point. I'm suggesting that you add a double brick wall, buttressing so to speak to stop this tendency to spread. Now... At this point your thinking... What about my dome built on a solider course? Isn't it the same? No not the same. The "arch shape is higher and the forces are more downward than outward. And the solider course has the larger gapes on the outside which you fill with mortar and effectively lock in with a buttressing layer. Regards dave
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Post by rivergirl on Jun 8, 2015 17:25:33 GMT
Have you tried tool station for your chimney?
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phi1
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Post by phi1 on Jun 8, 2015 17:39:15 GMT
Dave As I am not a builder could you explain in simple terms. I think I know what you mean, It is my intention to form a second arch in front of the one built, slightly bigger (about 25mm (1 inch) ) for a door stop for a removable oven door. The advice so far is that there should be a gap between the two arches as an expansion joint. Are you suggesting that I cement the two arches together? if i do this will an expansion joint just in the floor of the oven and tunnel be enough? My tunnel will only be about 400mm (16 inches) to accommodate a 150mm (6 inch) ss chimney. I was planning to build it funnel shaped (hah ha) to accommodate access for fire building and Pizza Paddles. Hope this makes sense Really appreciate your help (and other forum members) as previously stated I am an enthusiastic idiot with DIY, I am really enjoying this as a project and turning loads as I go along. Thanks again Phil
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Post by cobblerdave on Jun 9, 2015 7:14:05 GMT
Gday Phil
They say a pics worth a thousand words
Hope this explains it better.
Regards Dave
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phi1
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Post by phi1 on Jun 9, 2015 16:54:23 GMT
Thanks Dave Now I understand, not sure if I can do that now, I have got a triangular cut of brick between the soldiers forming the circular base and the upright for the arch. I then filled the gap with mortar containing grog. Hopefully this will be enough Phil
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Post by cobblerdave on Jun 10, 2015 9:03:36 GMT
G'day phil Sorry this is my fault sorry to add to your confusion. The Mouth of your oven is just fine. It is buttressed by dome itself. That's not going anywhere fast. By the way I admire the cuts where the dome meets the arch oven mouth. That's a neat piece of work, a great example of a transition. My point is really in your entrance itself. It's not tied into the dome ( especially if you do a heat break) so it's not buttressed as such.. It's only a small structure and unlike mine is not loaded with a brick chimney, so it could be alright. I"m just saying it would be prudent to have a double brick walled entrance. Again sorry for any confusion Regards dave
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phi1
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Post by phi1 on Jun 10, 2015 17:35:06 GMT
No problems Dave, I really appreciate other peoples experience and knowledge What is your take on an expansion joint/heat break? I was planning on an 8mm gap and filling it with fire door rope. If it is not necessary, my gut feeling is that if the tunnel and dome were joined they would be more stable Phil
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Post by cobblerdave on Jun 11, 2015 21:33:51 GMT
G'day phil A single line of mortar will not tie the entrance back into the dome. Mortars not a particularly getting "glue" but rather a gasket that holds the brick in the correct position in a structure. We build the entrance structure as a separate part of an oven so that we can have a revel, a lip of brick that enables a proper seal on an insulated door, so why not include a insulated break. Regards dave
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phi1
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Post by phi1 on Jun 19, 2015 20:02:37 GMT
Had a good day today in the sun. Finally got the hang of this bricklaying malarky ? Need to think about the tunnel now - ant advice? ? Also, if I use Porcelain Quarry tiles for the floor of the tunnel and the outside surround what adhesive should I use. I imagine it will get quite hot in the tunnel floor. I am going to lay the tunnel tiles on solid driveway blocks. Finally got the joint and angles sorted out. Pointing not so good inside but getting there, I am very please as an amateur builder Next stage is the anti gravity brick work. I will try one more course then I think a false floor with sand as a former to support the bricks - well its a plan anyway ? View from one side, I have been using surplus mortar with grog to hide the defects ? This shows the blocks I plan to use on the entrance tunnel and then tile on top to make them level with the oven floor. I will use the same tiles on the surround but they should only get hot where they but up to the firebricks.
As always any comments, criticism or advice appreciated. Phil
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lamby
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Post by lamby on Jun 21, 2015 17:26:38 GMT
She's coming along nicely Phil. To form the arch, I've seen plenty using bits of kingspan insulating board. I reckon the tiles can be layed on homebrew. Lamby
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