lamby
valid member
Posts: 38 
|
Post by lamby on Jun 4, 2015 19:12:06 GMT
Hi All,
I'm in the early stages of building my Pompeii oven.
Planning ahead and I'm thinking about cutting the fire bricks for the dome. Brick saws seem a bit on the expensive side for what I need. Can I buy a cheap mitre saw and stick a diamond blade on it?
What about gravity feeding a bit of water at the balde to reduce the dust?
I know I'll need to ensure blade speed is greater than the motor speed.
I have a half decent Dewalt saw but I don't fancy destroying it with brick dust and H2o!
Has anyone had any experience??
Cheers
Chris
|
|
phi1
valid member
Posts: 91
|
Post by phi1 on Jun 6, 2015 20:33:24 GMT
Hi Lamby, I have gone through the same pain barrier
First decision is what bricks will you use. If you use fire bricks then you will need a good cutter
Angle grinder is ok for shapes, chop saw for wood has a different central bore to diamond concrete blades. I did manage to get a ceramic tile blade but it was not really suitable for bricks.
Hiring a professional concrete/brick saw was nearly £200 p/w. I have ended up buying a saw from eBay £320 they cost £1200 new. I hope to sell it on the forum to get my money back or stick it back on fleabag.
Interesting enough I have been using the silt from the saw to mix with sand and cement as "grog"
Hope this helps
Phil
|
|
kipper
WFO Team Player
Posts: 125
|
Post by kipper on Jun 7, 2015 9:07:27 GMT
Morning.
I found cutting fire bricks easier than the red engineering bricks. Just soak them in water. I used a basic angle grinder with a standard disc.
|
|
|
|
Post by cannyfradock on Jun 7, 2015 12:48:24 GMT
Hello Chris That brick saw from Phil looks like a bargain if it ever comes up for sale. There is also a clamp/vice available on line which will take a 9" angle grinder so it can be used as a chop saw. Not sure how good they work as i haven't used one myself. I take a similar approach to kipper and soak the fire-bricks first, then cut them with a 9 or 12" angle grinder. I've only ever built Pompeii brick-ovens using fire-bricks chopped in half with a hammer and bolster and used 1 and 2" fire-bricks for ease of the dome/arch transition and closing the last couple of courses of the dome. I use the angle grinder for cutting in the bricks of the hearth to meet my first ring-course and cutting the top back edge of the internal arch (and first half-brick of the internal arch) to make the arch/dome transition easier. I also cut 2 and 1" fire-bricks to make the last 3 courses of the dome. (the first to last course of the dome, I always make 4" or a half bricks width. If you want to cut the ring courses of the dome bricks into a wedge or "trapazoid" shape making the interior a more professional look....  ....then you will need a "Clipper" brick cutter or something like Phil has got. I recently used a (prof) table top water fed tile cutter from "tops Tiles" which I would like to buy from the owner as soon as I finished his job, as this may? be good enough for cutting fire-bricks. It costs about £140. (keeping those fire-brick wet when cutting is the key) Hope you get a bit more feedback from your question from the guys on the forum. ATB with your build... Terry |
|
|
|
Post by cobblerdave on Jun 8, 2015 10:45:25 GMT
G'day
I'm a big fan of the brick bulster.
Simple quik and still strong.
Your building a dome one of the strongest structures on the planet. Get brick to brick contact on the bottom/top side of each brick and the mortar will orientate the bricks to be the strong structure that you need.
There is a bit of an art to get a brick bulster to cut at least a bit cleanly. Soft ground underneath. Otherwise you can shatter the brick into parts. If you don't want to lend a time on you knees on the ground, a pair of saw hourses a plank and an old wet towel will do. A quik line with and angle grinder on one face turn it down and hit the topside with a bulster and hammer works well.
Now in saying that. If I was to have the time to build another oven. And the oven gods were to say you have a brick saw ... Free and unfettered. I'd do this.
First 3 to 4 layers id do with the brick buster.
Next layers were those inverted V become evident I'd cut the sides out with the brick saw.
As the layers goes up less and less bricks are required. Less cuts
Each layer sit two bricks in place. Measure the gape at the bottom. 1/2 it. Cut that amount of each side of each brick . It will look good and be strong. And will take a heap of time of caulculating and cuting 5 sides of the brick.
Simple and efective.
Regards dave
|
|
lamby
valid member
Posts: 38
|
Post by lamby on Jun 8, 2015 15:32:43 GMT
Hi All,
Thanks for the feedback. I'm deffo using fire bricks for the dome and then using Reclaimed reds for the outer arch and chimney. I love the look of Vic's build so I'm planning on a replica of that with an old oak beam over my base/log store.
I think a clipper brick saw is overkill for one oven build - granted it's the easiest/quickest and potentially safest way to do the multiple cuts. I not sure I can be bothered finding one an lugging it about (those things look heavy and industrial lol) - I have put my hands on a mixer and plan to re-sell so it's far better than hiring one!
I want a well presented looking arch from the inside that holds plenty of heat, I've used a bolster to break conny block before and it worked well. I like the look of the angle grinder stands but it is going to create ton's of dust an noise....... decisions, decisions!!
I'll have a further look on the forums and then make my choice!
Thanks again for the comments.
Keep them coming - Excellent stuff.
Chris
|
|
|
|
Post by gazahayes on Oct 18, 2015 20:19:15 GMT
Am at the same stage myself used the angle grinder for the bricks of the hearth but it's very messy. Have a friend who has a block guillotine so might get the loan of it to see how it goes.
|
|
|
|
Post by darrellme on Oct 20, 2015 16:54:38 GMT
|
|
bento
valid member
Posts: 88
|
Post by bento on Nov 15, 2015 17:53:33 GMT
Exactly the same on as me. Bought a reconditioned 255mm Rage 3 from a reseller on ebay for about £60 and then a diamond blade form amazon for £30 or £40 I think. Although it does cut the bricks well, it takes a bit of effort. If a do an entire cut, it takes a good minute I would say - this is with the bricks soaked for weeks as well! |
|
|
|
Post by downunderdave on Nov 16, 2015 6:51:23 GMT
Exactly the same on as me. Bought a reconditioned 255mm Rage 3 from a reseller on ebay for about £60 and then a diamond blade form amazon for £30 or £40 I think. Although it does cut the bricks well, it takes a bit of effort. If a do an entire cut, it takes a good minute I would say - this is with the bricks soaked for weeks as well! Be careful, those saws are designed for cutting timber, not bricks. They do not have a water feed to reduce the dust created. This dust is actually quite dangerous because it is making microscopic shards of fired clay which get into your lungs and play havoc with all those tiny hairlike things in there. It is way more dangerous than breathing in clay dust which turns to mud when it gets wet. Secondly you must wear a respirator and a decent one at that, those paper dust masks are next to useless. Thirdly those saws are not designed for wet use so there may be electrical issues and also check the motor intake vents don't suck in brick dust. Having said all that I sometimes use a diamond blade on a 5" angle grinder, but not on a continued use. |
|
myke
valid member
2 boxes of insulation for sale see my sig
Posts: 60
|
Post by myke on May 14, 2016 20:37:43 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by oblertone on May 16, 2016 8:48:09 GMT
... it cuts the bricks easily and with a trickle of water onto the blade theres no dust. Great that you've found a blade that works at a reasonable price, but please don't assume that your trickle of water will lay all the dust, because it won't. A well fitting face mask is a must to prevent ingestion of fine particles which may do you serious harm. |
|
|
|
Post by sparkles on May 28, 2016 16:22:25 GMT
I bought an electric tile cutter from Wickes 35 quid changed the diamond blade for a 7 quid turbo diamond blade from Screwfix. Works a treat. The cutter will cut to a depth of 25mm so two cuts and a tap and it's sorted. Cutting guide is crap so fastened it down with a couple of small G clamps. Wet cut so no dust. Accurate and much safer than using the big diamond blade and I believe quicker.
|
|
bry
valid member
Posts: 56
|
Post by bry on Aug 13, 2016 16:59:19 GMT
Don't suppose you've remembered wether you used the 255 or the 210? This was exactly my plan as they're pretty cheap chop saws so if they afterwards doesn't really matter and I know they do all sorts of blades, the 210s a lot cheaper but obviously no good if 64mm brick won't fit in the thing?? |
|
|
|
Post by darrellme on Nov 13, 2016 14:24:26 GMT
Sorry it took so long, I have the 255 size
|
|
