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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 4, 2017 11:06:44 GMT
This may be a bit premature, because we are only at course 7 of 9 (probably), but I was wondering if anyone on the forum had any advice as we try to work out how to flint the exterior of our dome. The WFO will be in a Norfolk garden next to a red brick outhouse, but is next to a flinted cottage and walls. As I understand it, flinting normally involves inserting the flint, however you choose to grade or finish it, into mortar, so we are assuming that we need to put a waterproofing agent into the mortar mix or find some other waterproofing coating to keep the damp out of the layers of vermicrete and insulating blanket that will be below the flint. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what we should use? Many thanks.
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Post by oblertone on Oct 4, 2017 13:10:45 GMT
I came on this thread to Nuke it thinking that the title referred to some dubious sexual activity, only to find it's a perfectly reasonable question !
As to the answer; you'll need something over the blanket to form a shell as I'd imagine a flint layer would be very heavy. I'd consider using waterproof tile cement as its ready mixed, available and reasonably priced. Cover the blanket in a chicken wire 'cage' as this will give your render something to grip, then let it dry to a hard shell before adding your decorative layer. There's no reason not to add a waterproofing agent to your decorative layer either.
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Post by dave36 on Oct 4, 2017 20:21:14 GMT
This may be a bit premature, because we are only at course 7 of 9 (probably), but I was wondering if anyone on the forum had any advice as we try to work out how to flint the exterior of our dome. The WFO will be in a Norfolk garden next to a red brick outhouse, but is next to a flinted cottage and walls. As I understand it, flinting normally involves inserting the flint, however you choose to grade or finish it, into mortar, so we are assuming that we need to put a waterproofing agent into the mortar mix or find some other waterproofing coating to keep the damp out of the layers of vermicrete and insulating blanket that will be below the flint. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what we should use? Many thanks. I agree with Obletrone, My only addition is SSY what a beautiful house / countryside you have! D
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 4, 2017 21:14:37 GMT
Thanks to you both. I can now see the heading might be considered needlessly provocative! Apologies for any disappointment caused. . I was thinking of about a three inch thickness of perlite mix over the chicken wire. Would we need tile cement on top of that do you think? It's a lovely spot sure enough. I'm hoping we can finish off the dome by the middle of next week, but my brick cutting is agonisingly slow and we have to decide whether or not to put some sort of form in for the last two courses.
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Post by chas on Oct 5, 2017 7:41:45 GMT
. I was thinking of about a three inch thickness of perlite mix over the chicken wire. Would we need tile cement on top of that do you think? Inasmuch as the 'chains' of flint are all arches over the top, they'll be self-supporting to some extent - but water ingress may be an issue... Seems a bit belt and braces, but yes, I'd smear plaster something waterproof or resistant over the perlite - tile cement or K-rend. Do be gentle with your curing fires. You don't want to be creating steam from all that trapped construction water... Chas
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 5, 2017 8:02:17 GMT
Thanks Chas, That was actually going to be my next post, after searching the forum threads, to see if anybody could recommend a good source for a curing fire regime? I'm sure they are out there. What the picture doesn't show is that the build is now under cover from a gazebo, if it hasn't been blown across the fields, and I want to start fires as soon as the dome is complete, before insulation or chimney, because I gather it is a long process. all the best, Roger
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Post by oblertone on Oct 5, 2017 16:39:00 GMT
My build thread contains details of my curing regime, however to save you reading all the way through it went something like this. Day one small fire, nothing more than a few sticks, increased size of fire every day for a week. Day seven, filled it with hardwood then set it on fire and went for breakfast. I did use my dome without insulation for about a year, it's still standing.
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 7, 2017 20:13:52 GMT
Thank you. Rain stopped play today with one course to go!
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 13, 2017 11:14:45 GMT
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 13, 2017 11:15:52 GMT
Well we've finally finished the dome and started drying it all out with a 300w ultra violet lamp found in a skip. We light the first fire on Sunday night. I hope the chimney hole works!
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Post by simonh on Oct 13, 2017 12:22:40 GMT
looking good
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 20, 2017 12:30:01 GMT
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Post by dave36 on Oct 21, 2017 8:12:54 GMT
Started our first tentative fires and then the whole thing seemed so dry (it's always been protected from the elements and there has been no fresh mortaring for two weeks) that we cracked on with the ceramic fibre blanket layer of insulation. I now want to get on with putting a layer of perlite concrete over that prior to the final layer of flint and mortar. The new question is about the flue. We have a metal collar into which a standard 6 inch stove enamel pipe is designed to fit (with a rope seal to make it tight) which I was going to rest on the arch as is, though sealed with fresh refractory mortar and Vitcas high temp sealant. Can anyone see why this shouldn't work? Is there an issue about expansion of the metal plate? Just wondering. There's a new sense of urgency as the, ahem, "gazebo", is not going to make it through another storm at this rate. That’s pretty much exactly what I’d did with my flue and it worked absolutely fine. You can see in a little more detail if you look under clay oven 2016/ London build newbie Dave
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Post by wolvisfamily on Oct 21, 2017 11:00:39 GMT
Thanks Dave, I guess we'll be ok. We're hoping to put a clay chimney pot round it in the end, which will mean more weight on my first-timer brick arch. I'll check out your thread. Many thanks.
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Post by oblertone on Oct 21, 2017 12:44:53 GMT
+1 For mortar only; I dismount my chimney for storage purposes after every use, three years down the line and the locking collar is still in-situ.
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