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Post by truckcab79 on Apr 25, 2018 20:21:09 GMT
Many thanks. Presumably perforate both the regular foil layer AND the insulated foil layer?
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Post by downunderdave on Apr 25, 2018 20:37:06 GMT
Many thanks. Presumably perforate both the regular foil layer AND the insulated foil layer? Yes, you can bang a few nails into a piece of wood so they just protrude then proceed to slap the thing silly. I used foil when I built my oven around 9 years ago (wish I hadn’t) between the insulation layers and the outer render. I did perforate the foil in two places about 10 sq inches in each place in order to allow steam to pass those areas. Now, when I fire the oven after no use for some time, those spots get quite hot to touch while the rest of the oven is only just warm. This indicates that steam is passing through those holes at those two spots. Once the moisture hits the cooler foil layer it will tend to condense back to water and sit in the insulation layer until it eventually finds its way out. I now recommend that foil be avoided in all my builds. Hope this explanation helps. Also of great assistance is some kind of vent to allow moisture build up in the insulation layers to escape. In my design i’ve Incorporated this vent around the flue, but some builders have one in the top of the dome instead.
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Post by truckcab79 on Apr 25, 2018 20:38:20 GMT
Great. Many thanks.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 8, 2018 10:00:33 GMT
Well, my landrover now has a new fuel tank, and if any of you happen to own one you’ll know that predictably it also required two new chassis outriggers on which to hang said fuel tank. So two days of cutting and welding later I’m now back on the pizza oven. Welding aside the weekend was mostly spent sorting our garden and ponds as well as the obligatory friends and barbecues, so I only managed an hour on the oven. Filled in the void between base and oven with rubble and then topped off with mortar. Though not photographed I also scratched up the surface of the mortar when half set to give a better key for the next layer which will be the tiling.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 8, 2018 10:03:30 GMT
And I also ordered the shortest length of 5” chimney pipe I could find. At 250mm I’m hoping to use it as the permanently fixed part of the chimney with the upper part detachable for winter storage.
May even trim it down a little further. Will see once I get it mocked up.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 11, 2018 20:40:48 GMT
Cracked on with the quarry tiles today. Spent ages laying them out to get a decent consistent gap. Turned out 10mm gave me a 10mm overhang on all sides. With just two tiles to cut each side and no cuts on the front and back. Could have done with some spare tiles. I suspect that technically I have some supplied but I am tiling right up to the oven even though a lot of it will be covered and could just be filled flush with mortar. Have ten more to fit tomorrow and hopefully grout it with mortar also.
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Post by downunderdave on May 12, 2018 1:45:13 GMT
And I also ordered the shortest length of 5” chimney pipe I could find. At 250mm I’m hoping to use it as the permanently fixed part of the chimney with the upper part detachable for winter storage. May even trim it down a little further. Will see once I get it mocked up. I’m reluctant to give advice on another manufacturers build, but a 5” diam flue is too small for a 750 mm diam oven IMO. Especially as the flue gallery casting in your oven appears not to have any inverted funnelling to the base of the pipe. I think you will find it will draw ok once it’s been fired for half an hour but below that you are likely to experience a lot of smoke escaping out the front. This is really of little consequence because during pizza cooking it’ll be working fine. But you’ll have lots of smoke stains on your decorative arch. Increasing the length of flue pipe will increase the draw, but nowhere near as much as increasing the diameter. Perhaps you could stick to your plan and fit the 5” pipe ( maybe even cut down to 100 mm long, with the detachable extension a larger diameter. The short 5” section will act like a Venturi with smoke accelerating their while the larger diam pipe will work at increasing draw.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 12, 2018 7:13:45 GMT
Appreciate the advice. There is an inverted funnel shape but I suspect not as pronounced as you mean. I’ll go with the short section and removable flue. Given that it’s designed for 5” the cast section will be a restriction anyway so will fix in the cut down 5” section, and try with the 5” flue and if it performs as you suspect then it will be no great effort to just order up a 5-6” adapter and marching larger flue.
Many thanks.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 13, 2018 9:48:28 GMT
Finished the tiling. Used every tile supplied and ideally I’d have had a few more. Suspect the quantity supplied assumes you won’t tile under the area where the quarter bricks and insulation will be. I did just for peace of mind as I don’t know exactly where that will end.
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Post by simonh on May 13, 2018 16:00:12 GMT
Coming together nicely
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Post by truckcab79 on May 13, 2018 16:30:10 GMT
Coming together nicely Many thanks. Forgot to mention I did the last tiling and the grouting in the pouring rain as it started after I’d cut them and mixed the mortar. Seems to have survived, though where the 10mm overhang is and the mortar has no support underneath it’s too weak and is a bit powdery. (It was very wet). Will leave to go off fully then scrape out and redo that bit where necessary. Also think I might wax or seal the quarry tiles. Will strengthen the colour a little but more importantly will help against staining. Any recommended sealers? I’m tempted to just use briwax as I have plenty of it. And if I recall it’s linseed oil based much like floor and stone sealers often are.
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Post by oblertone on May 15, 2018 17:00:42 GMT
Olive oil works well and is cheap; needs redoing on a regular basis.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 15, 2018 17:03:41 GMT
Many thanks. Have already bought some stone sealer as the Briwax said don’t use where wet so probably no good for outdoor. Might still top up with oils or wax as regular maintenance after though.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 17, 2018 19:15:32 GMT
Arch done today. Left it well alone to cure before I do anything else. Will scrape out the joints and point tomorrow hopefully. Then on with insulation.
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Post by truckcab79 on May 18, 2018 20:05:11 GMT
Scraped out and pointed. Very pleased with the finish. For some reason that I can’t recall the instructions say to build arch 10mm from front of cast dome. Not sure why. Maybe a thermal break, though you then fill the gap with mortar anyway so maybe it’s just to allow for odd sizes of cut bricks. Anyway, used wire mesh to tie the arch into the cast dome, having already threaded loops of galv wire into the joints when assembling. Then mortared it over. Pointing gun that I’d bought earlier was great for getting into the gap from inside the arch. Wired into dome and mortared over. Nice finish inside arch where it meets cast dome. The fact that the arch is wider than the dome opening will allow me to cut a door to fit against the dome front giving a decent enough seal I think. Then tried the short flue section that I will bond permanently in. Despite comments earlier that the opening was out of round, when offered up it wasn’t far out. Used a dremel to grind away a little more on one side and it slotted straight in. The picture still makes it look an odd shape due to that shadow but it’s a perfect fit. Will leave cutting the short section down until I have built or at least prepped brick section of chimney so only a little protrudes when the extension is taken out. Then on with the foil. Then ceramic blanket and chicken wire. Finally ‘foil’ outer layer. Like an insulated reinforced foil sheet, then more chicken wire. Have to admit to a mistake as the chicken wire is only meant to go on once, at the end, but my ‘mistake’ means that I know that the blanket is all in place with no gaps before the foil went on. Fortunately enough supplied to do it twice. Done for the day. Shrink wrapped the dome with industrial cling film and then tarpaulin to keep it all dry before I crack on with the brickwork next time.
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