elfit
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by elfit on Jun 13, 2020 21:51:34 GMT
I've just about finished my build of a kilnlings veneto superior. I'll post a full build report later.
The kit comes with a big bucket of fire cement and the instructions say to build the arch using this. I've just done this today. However I'm now worried about how it will set. I'm probably worrying needlessly as I'm sure they know what they're talking about. Does the cement need heat to set it? If so what have others done to get the arch up to the required temperature? We'll see what the morning brings in terms of setting but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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Post by downunderdave on Jun 13, 2020 22:09:47 GMT
I've just about finished my build of a kilnlings veneto superior. I'll post a full build report later. The kit comes with a big bucket of fire cement and the instructions say to build the arch using this. I've just done this today. However I'm now worried about how it will set. I'm probably worrying needlessly as I'm sure they know what they're talking about. Does the cement need heat to set it? If so what have others done to get the arch up to the required temperature? We'll see what the morning brings in terms of setting but any advice would be appreciated. Thanks I’m not sure exactly what product you’ve bought, but if it is wet in a bucket it sounds like wet air set product that relies on a careful firing schedule to sintering temperature to make it permanent. You won’t be able to do either the careful schedule or reach sintering temperature in your oven. Check with kilnlinings to ensure you have the right product. Further explanation here. melbournefirebricks.com.au/new-products/refractory-mortar
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elfit
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by elfit on Jun 13, 2020 22:19:03 GMT
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Post by downunderdave on Jun 13, 2020 22:31:31 GMT
Ok. “Fully set” and “sintered” are two different states. I’d suspect it would turn back to mud if it got really wet, in which case the joints would be similar to using a sand/clay mix. In any case as they suggest, the product is only suitable for thin mortar joints. Personally I prefer the 3:1:1:1 sand, Portland cement, hydrated lime, powdered clay “homebrew” which has proved to be a better and more suitable solution for ovens, as well as being cheaper. A third alternative is to use a calcium aluminate based mortar. These are usually in a dry powdered form, mixed with water to create a workable consistency, and rely on the chemical bond of themuch higher temperature resistant calcium aluminate cement.
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