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Post by bookemdanno on Aug 3, 2013 18:55:15 GMT
Way-hey!!! Here we go!!! Nice one Eddie, cracking work as usual. Hope your neck and ankle are ok? Does the ring beam come off? I think you'll swear about that a few times during the build, if not!  |
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Post by eddiej on Aug 4, 2013 7:59:05 GMT
I did think about the ring beam and banging my head. Its also frustrating that won't be able to put the roof on yet.  As you know oak isn't exactly the easiest material to work with and keep square when framing, so I put the ring beam on in order to get it square before fitting the knee bracing. Having it there at the moment does have one good advantage, as I can place bits of wood across the top of it, then suspend some stainless steel lock wire down from it to support the reinforcing mesh prior to concreting the raft. It'll save issues of propping the mesh up.  I'll see how it goes after that, and as they are only pinned down with 16mm stainless rod, I should be able to remove them relatively easily. |
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Post by bookemdanno on Aug 4, 2013 10:20:15 GMT
True, it does have its use. I find these days (with my lack of head insulation, or cats whiskers) that i only need the slightest thing in and around head height, at whatever level i'm working, for me to find it. Usually at quite a decent speed too! The best and latest one, was the top half of a stable door as i was coming up from bending down! I just saw that ring beam, and my forehead hitting it on the way in, and then back of the head on the way out! Each and every time! Enjoy the sun, and the next bit. |
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Post by eddiej on Aug 8, 2013 17:18:57 GMT
I finished work early today, so managed to make a bit more progress. The shuttering is in, and I have sealed the whole lot in with bitumastic roofing paint. Oak and concrete don't go together very well, as I found out to my cost on a previous job. Any splashes of concrete stain in really badly. I figured that the bitumastic paint should both act as a damp proof membrain to the oven, and also as a barrier to the oak. Tomorrow is a screwed up day in respect of work, so time permitting I shall get the reinforcing mesh, ballast and cement, and in an ideal world, get it concreted.  |
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Post by eddiej on Aug 9, 2013 14:02:28 GMT
The concrete is in!!!!!!! Two layers of A142 mesh. One a third up and one a third down.   |
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Post by bookemdanno on Aug 9, 2013 14:30:17 GMT
A good mornings Yakka! Nicely tamped and trowelled edged sir! Nearly time for some brickwork then? |
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Post by eddiej on Aug 9, 2013 17:12:52 GMT
How long do I need to leave the concrete to cure before adding the vermicrete base?
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Post by bookemdanno on Aug 10, 2013 8:08:10 GMT
There's no real weight in the vermincrete, so i'd say that so long as the conrete has gone "green", i'd be happy to get that layer on with care, if i wanted to get cracking time-wise. Both layers can then fully cure together.
Then i'd think i'd be thinking a full week, at least, before getting on with setting any weight onto it. And then, i wouldn't be jumping on it myself!
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Post by cannyfradock on Aug 10, 2013 9:27:39 GMT
Hello Eddie
Love your craftmanship...you don't do things by half do you!!
I'm not sure what method you are using for the hearth. Most of us on here have gone down the route of concrete slab...insulation block (laid flat)...then fire-brick hearth. The Americans tend to use vermecrete (vermiculate, cement and water)..or cal-cil board....or both.
Your concrete should be hard enough to use the following day (it will harden after 1 day but the curing process doesn't start till after 7 days...and constantly continues after that. The only problem you will have is the moisture in the concrete. A lot of the builds will have shuttering on the outsides or below the concrete which can be removed the following day to allow air to get to the concrete....this will augment the curing process of the concrete and allow it to dry quicker. I don't think you have either. This isn't a problem in itself but it will mean that you may not see the maximum efficiency of your hearth until all that moisture has evaporated.
Myself, I would be tempted to let the air get to the concrete for a few days (till it goes from green to grey) before adding your insulation layer (s).
Terry
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Post by rivergirl on Aug 10, 2013 18:08:11 GMT
Once again your woodwork is amazing, am looking forward to seeing further photos
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Post by kstronach on Aug 10, 2013 21:04:13 GMT
Hi Eddie.
Really nice work fella I can't wait to see your build progress further!
All I will say is I personally regretted using vermicrete under my oven and wished I had opted for thethermolight blocks as most do on here! The vermicrete holds a hell of alot of water so takes a long long time to dry out. It may be worth considering using the blocks instead if you have the depth to get then in? Just a thought! Either way will be fine but I recon the blocks will be quicker easier and probably cheaper to use. I used nearly 3 bags of vermiculite mixing my slab and that gave me just shy of 4" of insulation. What thickness are you planning for?
Keith
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Post by marudge on Aug 12, 2013 20:27:31 GMT
Hi Eddie I used an inch layer of vermiculite on mine followed by a 2 inch calcium silicate board. This seems to have worked well in that is has held up nicely. In theory it should provide more than enough insulation - but I have yet to test that really. Here a pic of the layers.  I love your build by the way - the oak frame is an absolute masterpiece. I look forward to seeing the brick work progress. Regards Mark |
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Post by eddiej on Aug 13, 2013 16:25:07 GMT
Many thanks for all the kind replies. My original intention was to use a 40mm layer of vermicrte (40mm as that brings me to the top of the plate) then I was going to use 50mm of calcium silicate board, very much along the lines of what marudge has done. There has been a big financial spanner thrown in the works*, which will delay me getting any further for at least the next few weeks, but this will give me plenty of time to work out exactly what I do want to do, and I was sensible enough to leave myself a 75mm tolerance to play with over and above the figures above. I do have one question which is probably impossible to answer. Assuming that you use a thickness of 25/50mm calcium board, what kind of temperature would the underside of the board be? I have a possibly silly idea running through my head of adding a bitumen barrier to the underside of the board, to prevent dampness from tracking up. Obviously if it is going to reach a high temperature, then I won't be doing it. |
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Post by spinal on Aug 13, 2013 16:35:50 GMT
I have 40mm of ceramic board (I tried calsil, but it seemed to fall apart with humidity), with 100mm of vermicrete underneath. Under that I have 10cm of concrete.
On the sides (at the thinnest point) I have 25mm of ceramic blanket, and then about 3cm of loose vermiculite, this followed by red engineering bricks.
My longest firing has been about 8 hours, at over 700C consistently.
The bottom of the oven (from underneath) stayed stone cold; but the sides did warm up (to 28-30C according to my thermometer) - so there was some heat leakage.
WIth 50mm of calsil, you MAY not get any heat leakage... but is it something you are willing to test? Grab a blowtorch, some board and try it out...
Alternatively, I hear some people use aluminium foil...
M.
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Post by rockrocky on Aug 13, 2013 17:32:24 GMT
I tried using the board as a door and as spinal said leaving it outdoors in the humidity,
it fell apart.
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