Leeds Build

[martin0777]

Hi,
Ive just finished building mine - for the base I used a perlite cement mix and it worked quite well!
Put insulation boards & fire brick ontop.

Take a look :

wfoleeds.blogspot.co.uk

any questions let me know.

Thnaks

M

[dunnes2002]

Sept 26, 2013 9:21:42 GMT martin0777 said:

Hi,
Ive just finished building mine - for the base I used a perlite cement mix and it worked quite well!
Put insulation boards & fire brick ontop.

Take a look :

wfoleeds.blogspot.co.uk

any questions let me know.

Thnaks

M

very nice build, where in Leeds are you?

[dunnes2002]

ok next stage is covering the thermalites on top and the side.

Im thinking of putting some tiling on the top to cover any exposed areas at the front and back of the dome. A little unsure on how to do this but hopefully the diagram and explanation will help.

I plan to overhang the tiles slightly on top so that i can render underneath the tiles and use a stop bead to support the render at the bottom of the thermalite. Overhang is there to hide the top of the render and make it look neat and tidy. It makes sense really but just wondered if anyone else had any suggestions?

The detailed!! diagram will make everything crystal clear!!

Attachments:

[bookemdanno]

Hi dunnes, your idea seems fine to me!

But i'd try to get the end stop bead to drop below the underside of the Thermalites to create a drip. You want the rainwater to hang and drip off the bead. If its flush with the underside, it'll track back towards the Thermolites and brickwork, sit there, soak and come the frosts the bricks and especially the Thermolites will spall and crumble.
You'll only need it to be around half an inch below the bottom of the Thermolites to work.

Have fun!

[martin0777]

I'n over in Chapel Allerton - Gledhow Valley.

[cannyfradock]

Dunnes

It also makes sense to me overhanging the tiles to create a stop for your render. I would use flexible floor tiling adhesive to lay the tiles. It's good stuff and have enough flex to handle any heat that comes from the oven. Brilliant suggestion from Dan with creating a drip. I don't know a lot about beading and don't know if you can buy a stop bead with a drip?......if not you could use a corner render bead so that the edge drops down 10/15mm below the underside of your blocks......Maybe a special bead exists?. ....over to Dan.

Terry

[dunnes2002]

thanks very much for you input, will have a go at the weekend and see how it looks/works.

Some of the thermolites wont have any coverage by tiles as its flush to the edge. I'm not sure how the render will look here as it will be straight onto the dome. May have to do the render and then add a thin line of tiles afterwads to make it look a bit neater.

will have a play and see how it works. More importantly will test on the far side which no one can really see as its up against a fence!!

[bookemdanno]

Look up Bell Cast or Bell Drip Bead in Google Images, failing that Plaster End Stop Bead.
Very similar, but Bell Drip is slightly angled.
You can simply screw it to the Thermolites, through the mesh and the combination of that and the render will hold it in place.

[dunnes2002]

changed my mind again, decided not to rnder the sides and just paint them white for now, may render next year if i have some free time but it looks ok just painted white for now.

Onto the subject of flexible floor tile adhesive, does it have to be for the floor? I'm also stuggling to find some in small quantaties so may end up using standard adhesive and see how it goes. Im only covering 4 small areas and basically want to get it waterproof before winter really kicks in.

Adjustments may need to be made next year, which i'd be quite happy with as it will give me something to look forward to!!

[bookemdanno]

Dunnes, normal wall tile adhesive won't last outside, it'll just crumble to bits.
There may be one out there with exterior capabilities, but i've yet to find it.
Same with the Grout, it'll need to specify exterior grade.
Most floor tile adhesive is cement based, hence its ability to last outside. But then you must ensure that it actually says that it can be used outside on the manufacturers instructions. Then the grout must be exterior grade and waterproof too, as its a way in for water and then frost to destroy all your hard work. You could then seal the lot with a proper sealer like Lithofin.
There shouldn't be any trouble in using sand and cement to fix your tiles...well it depends on your tiles, but the issue is the grab when tiling vertically and getting the mortar silky enough and able to stand the suction of the tiles without drying out the mortar too quickly.
Playpit sand is usually quite fine, or kiln dried sand for grouting pavers, which might be a good investment to use as your aggregate.
I've used plain old mortar to set quarry tiles, but they can be a beggar to get up again!
If you can, and the best way is to try a sample, round the back of your oven, for instance and leave it a while to test for adhesion after a few days. Fix a mechanical lip, like a batten to hold the tile in place whilst the mortar sets if your tiling vertically. Like when you set your first run of tiling to a wall around a bath, etc.
Hope that helps.
Danno

[dunnes2002]

excellent thanks for the input.
I have some kiln dried sand at home so may use that on the tiles as they are all to be horizontallly laid. Will splash out on the grout though and get the proper stuff, for both the look and protection.

Next pizza party on Saturday so will hopefully get it all completed by then and have some more pictures of the final build. Only the door left after that which im alot more relaxed about.

[cannyfradock]

Dunnes

Looking forward to some pics of the next party...

Kiln dried sand and cement will work, but you may have to prop up the tiles to help them set. It's up to you , but I would opt for Danno's proposition of flexible floor tile adhesive. The rapid set stuff can be knocked up in small batches and the initial "grab" is quite good.

Terry

[dunnes2002]

i promise to take more pictures of the next party on Sat. Plenty of people to help so i may have time to even take some myself instead of asking others to take them all. Will definitely get a picture of the nutella and strawberry ones!!

Parents are over from Spain too so will be having a smaller pizza party next Thursday. Most of these will involve anchovies if my mother has anything to do with the toppings.

All coming thick and fast at the moment, will quieten down after that, then hopefully into some baking once the door is complete/started!!

[dunnes2002]

Just found out that a friend of a friend used to own a metal fabrication business and said he would make me a door for the magic sum of £0.

Any advice on what i should ask for? I think he advised on a 1/4 inch plate and said he would add some handles. It will need a small plate at the bottom to enable it to stand up and s small hole in the middle to add my thermometer... am i missing anything? Apart from providing a template for him to use?

One recent addition i have bought is a car cover to give the oven a little more protection as the bad weather draws in. Seems to be doing the trick at the minute, will hopefully prolong the life of the oven.

[tonyb]

Dunnes, the door doesn't need thick metal, its not structural, which will just make it difficult to move about depending on the size of your door of course.

I went for a 3 piece construction: inner ms plate, insulation layer and outer plate with handles. The design has the inner plate and insulation the same size which fits inside the door opening and the outer lare plate butts up to the outer face of the arch, if that makes sense.

It will be helpful if the handles are wood rather than metal otherwise they will get hot and its surprising how often you forget to use the oven glove