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Post by darrellme on Jun 21, 2014 21:08:28 GMT
Made some good progress this weekend. Had a couple of days off so I had chance to actually re-do the floor after my little fo'par with the insulation board, whoopsie. This is what I'd actually done Whats funny is that it took me a good couple of hours to cut the board too small and at when I'd done I was very proud indeed. Major facepalm when I'd realised what I'd done. Never mind, I guess that's what learning is all about, second times the charm apparently After re-jigging some of the bricks managed to get a relatively smooth floor Managed to get the first ring sorted today also, went' so smoothly I could barely believe it, a shot of before I started to mortar them into place The floor cutting wasn't too shabby considering, it went better as I figured out how to get the radius more accurate A shot from the other side Bricks all mortar'd into place, the homebrew stuff is surprisingly easy to work with and allows a great deal of time to work with it.....as long as the bricks are soaked prior to working with them that is The internal gaps filled to tidy it up a little I've also mortar'd the gaps in the bricks, just forgot to take the photo. Oh well, back on it tomorrow, I'm hoping I'll be able to get the next course done, but I guess this is where it starts to get fiddly (Strange why some of the photos are sideways or even upside down, very odd) D
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rokdok
WFO Team Player
Posts: 130
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Post by rokdok on Jun 21, 2014 23:59:04 GMT
Looks very good Darrel - looking forward to seeing the progress tomorrow RD
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Post by darrellme on Jun 22, 2014 15:53:51 GMT
Yay, managed to get another row done today without having to cut the bricks too much, basically in half, although not all of the bricks appear to touch together on their internal vertical edges either at the top or the bottom, will this be a problem do you think ? I'm putting it down to the bricks not being particularly uniform in shape and size I think this next one shows what I mean about the bricks not touching completely in places I haven't use the IT tool just yet, but I was happy that its the bang in the centre and holds a brick on all sides, so my measuring must be pretty accurate I might attempt looking into the arch tomorrow seeing as everything appears to have gotten a lot easier, at least so far anyway. Any hints/tips when it comes to planning out the arch anyone Until tomorrow D
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rokdok
WFO Team Player
Posts: 130
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Post by rokdok on Jun 22, 2014 19:12:55 GMT
D, it won't be any problem at all if you don't have the bricks touching, the home brew will do its job. I used recticel foam insulation board for the formers for my arches. It's easy to use but I found it difficult to cut it in a curve absolutely perpendicular with the result that my arches were a bit uneven. I think the wood formers would be more accurate although a bit more difficult. RD
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Post by darrellme on Jun 23, 2014 15:04:45 GMT
Slow progress today due to the fact that I decided to alter the entrance floor so that it would be more robust and then I got a little confused about how to do the arch but it became a bit clearer once I created a form...at least I think anyhow
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Post by darrellme on Jul 25, 2014 21:26:14 GMT
I've not had chance to post any updates for a little while, but I will endeavour to upload the latest photos over the weekend. I've made some good progress until I reached the archway, which took some finesse to get right
One thing that I've started to become concerned with is the width of the calcium silicate board under my oven floor. I originally brought the 2.5", had a slight mishap and then re-ordered, unfortunately I ordered the 2" board and started the build before realising. Now, does anything think that I should be concerned too much about this or not. The calcium silicate board is wrapped in foil and directly on the concrete slab
Thanks
D
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Post by darrellme on Sept 2, 2014 12:49:03 GMT
So, I have a quick question that I'm hoping someone can help with. When I initially cemented my arch I didn't taper the bricks. Thankfully the arch has no come away, possibly due to my using it to help me clamber onto the base so that I can do the dome bricks. Anyway, whats the best method of know what or how much to taper the bricks
Thanks
D
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Post by darrellme on Sept 14, 2014 20:00:13 GMT
So I've managed to sort out the dome/arch transition fairly easily as it happens. The next thing I need to figure out, if anyone can help, is the last few courses. I tried using the exercise ball method, but there was simply too much play for the bricks to set in place properly so I was wondering whether people had any other ideas. The next one on my list to try is the sand former, but that would require a heck of a lot of sand from what I can tell, so....any other ideas
Thanks in advance
Darrell
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Post by cobblerdave on Sept 14, 2014 21:22:34 GMT
G'day Cut a disk of 12 mm ply. Make sure the last bricks are layed at least a week. With blocks of wood and a car jack position the disk in the dome. Build a mold of sand on that. A bit of fireclay to make the sand stick together would help but its got to be moist. A layer of wet newsprint over that to stop it sticking. After the final layers it just a case of dropping the jack and there's hardly any sand Regards dave
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Post by darrellme on Sept 15, 2014 15:31:33 GMT
Awesome idea Dave, many thanks, I'll definitely be giving that a try
Thanks
D
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Post by darrellme on May 11, 2015 21:15:12 GMT
Yay, I'm finally managing to restart the work on the pizza oven. So, a quick question really. In terms of the chimney I was thinking of one of the metal flue type things, although I'm not sure where to get one from yet, any ideas. Also, in terms of the size what would be best for a 36" dome. And finally, how big does the hole in the outer arch need to be for the flue. Presumably I simply mortar the base of the flue to a brick base
Thanks
D
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Post by darrellme on May 13, 2015 19:59:54 GMT
Thought I might as well upload some photos of my progress so far. I finally managed to finish the outer arch with the gap for the flue, flue and accessories have been ordered and hopefully delivered on Friday. Also managed to finish the dome today too adding in the final keystone, just the pointing to do on Friday and then I can finally fire up the bad boy. This was the state of my oven last year before the winter kicked in: - Outer arch finally done Hole ready for the flue YAY, the final keystone cut and ready for install
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Post by cobblerdave on May 14, 2015 0:42:18 GMT
Yay, I'm finally managing to restart the work on the pizza oven. So, a quick question really. In terms of the chimney I was thinking of one of the metal flue type things, although I'm not sure where to get one from yet, any ideas. Also, in terms of the size what would be best for a 36" dome. And finally, how big does the hole in the outer arch need to be for the flue. Presumably I simply mortar the base of the flue to a brick base Thanks D G'day Great pics... Looking good Rule of thumb for chimney size is 32 inch and below 6 inch chimney. Above that size oven to 42 inch 8 inches. There are to many variables with a chimney to consider ie height insulated or not but that should see you right. Regards dave
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Post by oblertone on May 14, 2015 10:33:15 GMT
6" internal diameter double skinned stainless (8" external) in 1m length is about perfect for a 36" oven. Ring around local stove installers and seek discontinued or used stock 'cos they just throw it away. I did just that and was given a length with a register (anchor) plate free, had to buy a rain cowl though :-(
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Post by darrellme on May 14, 2015 12:13:42 GMT
Bugger, already ordered a set of 6"(internal), double skinned stainless steel flue kit, 500mm pipe with rain cowl and anchor plate from Stoves online (http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Seldek-Pellet.html) in the end as I couldn't find many places that actually stocked them. They were actually pretty helpful, oh well, never mind, at least its being delivered on Friday so as long as the weather is good I might be able to start building the chimney up a little and even install it :-). Also, if the 500mm length isn't good enough I can simply buy another 500mm length and connect them up
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