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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 10, 2017 16:25:10 GMT
Hi everybody,
I'm a complete novice, recently made redundant, and with the help of my next door neighbour who has quite a lot of building experience, we are about to embark on a 36" Pompeii style build. We have done what he calls "the easy part" and built a plinth with a 3.5" reinforced concrete top. [see pics]. Our site is constrained by the "pit" in which it is located, hence having to knock the corners off the structure.
We are about to lay the floor of the oven and were going to use 50mm high temperature insulating board underneath standard firebricks in the "igloo" pattern from the FornoBravo website and community. Am I right in thinking that we only need the insulation underneath the oven floor itself, and that the floor bricks are laid into kiln dried sand and/or fireclay? Is that enough to stop them moving about? Have I missed something?
Looking forward to the forum's thoughts, as we hope to be charting the process with photos.
Roger and Brian
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Post by chas on Jul 11, 2017 7:30:03 GMT
Hi everybody, I'm a complete novice, recently made redundant, and with the help of my next door neighbour who has quite a lot of building experience, we are about to embark on a 36" Pompeii style build. We have done what he calls "the easy part" and built a plinth with a 3.5" reinforced concrete top. [see pics]. Our site is constrained by the "pit" in which it is located, hence having to knock the corners off the structure. We are about to lay the floor of the oven and were going to use 50mm high temperature insulating board underneath standard firebricks in the "igloo" pattern from the FornoBravo website and community. Am I right in thinking that we only need the insulation underneath the oven floor itself, and that the floor bricks are laid into kiln dried sand and/or fireclay? Is that enough to stop them moving about? Have I missed something? Looking forward to the forum's thoughts, as we hope to be charting the process with photos. Roger and Brian Hi Both, and welcome. Some perimeter heat may leak if the floor insulation stops at the base of the dome, but as it's usual to form the floor within a retaining brickwork ring, that's inevitable. Cut and laid tight within the same ring the floor bricks can't seperate but should be bedded/tamped down firmly so they stay flat - projecting edges or corners will catch the peel. Any gaps in the flooring will be helpfully filled with ash. Can't see the pics... Chas |
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Post by oblertone on Jul 11, 2017 8:02:15 GMT
You'll be fine with 50mm of insulating board, I used 25mm under my floor bricks and the whole thing sits in a steel pan; the max temp I've recorded underneath is about 80c so yours should be fine. As to the 'hard bit' I think you've already done that as my dome went up fairly easily. ps - no pics  |
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Post by downunderdave on Jul 11, 2017 11:38:52 GMT
Hi everybody, I'm a complete novice, recently made redundant, and with the help of my next door neighbour who has quite a lot of building experience, we are about to embark on a 36" Pompeii style build. We have done what he calls "the easy part" and built a plinth with a 3.5" reinforced concrete top. [see pics]. Our site is constrained by the "pit" in which it is located, hence having to knock the corners off the structure. We are about to lay the floor of the oven and were going to use 50mm high temperature insulating board underneath standard firebricks in the "igloo" pattern from the FornoBravo website and community. Am I right in thinking that we only need the insulation underneath the oven floor itself, and that the floor bricks are laid into kiln dried sand and/or fireclay? Is that enough to stop them moving about? Have I missed something? Looking forward to the forum's thoughts, as we hope to be charting the process with photos. Roger and Brian In the absence of photos it's unclear how you plan the floor. It can be built with the dome on top of the floor or the dome beside the floor. There are advantages and disadvantages for each method, but either way there should be insulation under the base of the dome, so heat is not lost via conduction to the supporting slab. A levelling mix consisting of 50/50 sand and powdered clay is the usual mix and around 1/2" thick. It can be spread wet or dry. If left dry it makes removal and replacement of any floor bricks easier. The bricks should be laid loose to allow for expansion. |
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 16, 2017 16:34:45 GMT
Thank you everyone, and apologies for the lack of pictures. Still getting the hang of using a forum. Let's try this.  |
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 16, 2017 17:04:56 GMT
So, we've been using an Evolution 210mm chop saw to cut some half bricks and start figuring out how it all comes together. Annoyingly it doesn't quite cut cleanly through in one pass, and I think we are going to be powering through diamond blades. I think we are good for the basic dimensions: 36" interior diameter, then 4and a half inches of fire brick, then appx 50 mm of insulating blanket which will be covered in some kind of cement/mortar/stucco which will be as weatherproof as we can make it, and the base medium for an awful lot of local FLINT. Basically it is going to look like a very strange hedgehog.
Inside the dome should be 18" high from the floor to the top of the ceiling and I am planning an 18" wide opening, with a slight "Roman" arch which should give a maximum of 12" headroom at the apex.
Burning questions: - where does the vent hearth actually begin? How long is it ?(advice I have taken from FB site in US says about a brick and a half). Is the chimney opening centred in the roof of the hearth or should it be located as though its circumference is just kissing the 36" circumference of the dome. Apologies for the barrage of questions, work has been a bit frantic today. Images are taking a while to upload, but will persevere.
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 16, 2017 21:49:44 GMT
 Is the hearth starting in the right place? I know the circle representing the chimney opening is too far in on this plan. |
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 17, 2017 5:15:41 GMT
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Post by james9 on Jul 17, 2017 15:57:11 GMT
So, we've been using an Evolution 210mm chop saw to cut some half bricks and start figuring out how it all comes together. Annoyingly it doesn't quite cut cleanly through in one pass, and I think we are going to be powering through diamond blades. I think we are good for the basic dimensions: 36" interior diameter, then 4and a half inches of fire brick, then appx 50 mm of insulating blanket which will be covered in some kind of cement/mortar/stucco which will be as weatherproof as we can make it, and the base medium for an awful lot of local FLINT. Basically it is going to look like a very strange hedgehog. Inside the dome should be 18" high from the floor to the top of the ceiling and I am planning an 18" wide opening, with a slight "Roman" arch which should give a maximum of 12" headroom at the apex. Burning questions: - where does the vent hearth actually begin? How long is it ?(advice I have taken from FB site in US says about a brick and a half). Is the chimney opening centred in the roof of the hearth or should it be located as though its circumference is just kissing the 36" circumference of the dome. Apologies for the barrage of questions, work has been a bit frantic today. Images are taking a while to upload, but will persevere. Re the 210mm saw, would the 255mm version work any better? I was going to get this from screwfix or amazon as it also has a single bevel so the bricks can be tapered for a tighter fit. |
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 18, 2017 6:36:06 GMT
Hi James, I got mine from Screwfix, but I have to say the gearbox has just gone! I'm sending it back tomorrow. I honestly don't know whether the 255mm version is better, but I might ask them. I too had the idea that I would be using it to taper the bricks though I am such a beginner that I was hoping to find a site somewhere that showed me someone actually doing it. I'll post how I get on. Good luck.
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Post by crammy on Jul 18, 2017 7:57:19 GMT
hi Wolvisfamily. I just wondered what blade you used. I have a sliding compound mitre saw at home if i can find the right blade i will use it. ill be using a 41/2 and a 9" grinder for the curved but the saw would be better. i dont mind even buying an evolution if it makes life easier and give a better job.
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 18, 2017 9:07:19 GMT
Hi, I bought the diamond blade by evolution, and it certainly worked fine, until it didn't....the saw itself now has a broken gearbox.Probably not as robust as some solutions
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Post by james9 on Jul 18, 2017 10:07:39 GMT
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Post by wolvisfamily on Jul 18, 2017 11:43:56 GMT
Thanks James! I never realised how much homework would be involved in this process.
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Post by crammy on Jul 18, 2017 12:23:40 GMT
Thanks wolvisfamily. I may just try and get a blade for my current saw. i will be using a grinder this week cutting the floor bricks in a curve and try to get the saw blade for the weekend
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