stevo
WFO Team Player
Posts: 118
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Post by stevo on Jun 15, 2012 14:12:51 GMT
Ordered!!
150 bricks 2x fireclay thermal blanket 3x vermiculite
Game on...
Stevo
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Post by turkey on Jun 15, 2012 15:42:47 GMT
excellent Do you have plans for how to cut the bricks? A bolster or some diamond blade of some sort?
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Post by cannyfradock on Jun 15, 2012 17:33:42 GMT
stevo
I like your design.....and the size of the oven. Glad your taking the advice of Turkey...re:- bricks laid correctly as arched roof. If you mark out the bricks on your first arch former, you should be able to space the bricks out without need of cutting a keystone.......if you do get an angle grinder to cut your bricks....you will need a decent diamond disc (soak bricks in water for ease of cutting and blade protection)
Terry
p.s.....it's a good idea to regester with the old forum to be able to see all the picture diary's of all Vault oven builds.......
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stevo
WFO Team Player
Posts: 118
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Post by stevo on Jun 18, 2012 17:04:38 GMT
Thanks very much, i spent hours designing and fiddling with the design to get it how i want. I bought a diamond blade the other week so i'll use that to cut the bricks.
Is it better to have the bricks wet when laying them then.
I also managed to finish the bbq area last week when there was a break in the rain. I've got my brother in-law sorting out a stainless steel grill and charcoal pan (with built in gas burners too).
I should have the base rendered by next week which means i might actually get this done in time...
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stevo
WFO Team Player
Posts: 118
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Post by stevo on Jun 18, 2012 17:10:23 GMT
Here's the bbq "L" shape. the grill Should sit at the top of my thigh. The grill will be a monster, 600x600 - plenty of burgers on that beast. The blockwork is not too bad if i do say so myself, it'll be hidden under smooth grey render anyway. Had a call from Kilnlinings today to say my stuff will arrive on Wednesday - so i booked a day off to look it over and be shocked at what i have ahead of me! Cheers Stevo Attachments:
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Post by cannyfradock on Jun 18, 2012 18:42:06 GMT
Stevo
If the fire-bricks are bone dry, then use a hand, plastic "spray bottle" to moisten them. normally they have enough moisture in them to be used without wetting. If you are using an angle grinder.....make sure to soak about 20 bricks in water. You will need odd shaped bricks around the arch transition......and for the last 3 or 4 coarses of the dome.
Terry
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stevo
WFO Team Player
Posts: 118
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Post by stevo on Jun 19, 2012 10:36:04 GMT
I might actually get a diamond blade for my brothers Dewalt bench saw - quicker and more accurate cutting using that i think. Has anyone done that?
S
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Post by turkey on Jun 19, 2012 11:34:48 GMT
I used a mitre saw? that was good as I think the hinged nature means the cut is very straight, I think this preserves the life of the blade as when I went freehand (holding the brick up into the blade for finer nips) sparks tended to fly and that is diamonds flying off. bench saw sounds even better. I did not do overly complicated cuts for mine as it was not practical with the mitre but I suspect you could easily manage the same with a angle grinder and a workbench to hold the bricks whilst cutting.
Terry has manged with a bolster and had good results as the un cut edges are easily used within the oven so you never see the cut anyhow.
If you blade is useable or a new blade is not too much go for it, otherwise it might be worth trying with what you have before splashing the cash as I am not sure I can really say it will make a massive difference to 90% of the cuts.
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Post by bookemdanno on Jun 19, 2012 12:27:11 GMT
Is that a Mitre saw that'd normally get used for Carpentry, Turkey? Just change the blade to a Diamond? Not a bad idea, the only other brick saws i've seen have been large petrol engined water cooled monsters.
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Post by turkey on Jun 19, 2012 13:36:41 GMT
it was indeed a £30 B&Q cheap n nasty wood saw, you can see cheap and budget theme running through my whole build. The only problem is the "bore" (hole in the middle of the blade) is 30mm where as the angle grinder blades are 22 or 25 so do not fit, I was very lucky to find a suitable blade on ebay, its not the full 200mm I would have liked (my mitre saws size), its only 180mm (radius) but has done sterling service, I have not even burnt out the cheap motor (yet). It is just big enough that on a squate cut can get through to the rear of the brick so when I turn it over to fully cut through I can line up perfectly without measuring and such.
Its a bit of a pig on the angle cuts if you need to do it length way as if you emagine the brick orientation and the motor on the right you can cut the top half of the brick perfectly from both sides to the desired angle but the other half of the brick has to be wedged up and its a bit of a faff, cannot complain tho as I probably only had to do that 10 times out the whole thing and got quite good at it in the end.
Also can use the blade as a grinder to smooth areas or shape a cut (see my flue hole) but glad this was the last few things to do as was a bit worried I would blunt it, but it did not really spark at all and seems as good as the first cut, not got a micrometer to check the wear but I recon it has another full oven build or so in it.
I think wetting the bricks and using a water spray as I cut to lubricate has really helped, you can hear the disk slow if I really force it when trying to rush and keep the noise down, but it is still going strong. Well worth the money, and I have the wood blade still and used it to make a few raised planters with decking off cuts.
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Post by tonyb on Jun 19, 2012 14:30:55 GMT
Turkey I think cheap and cheerful is a better term The mitre/bench saws are good options but I wouldn't risk using an expensive model as the abrasive brick dust gets everywhere and could knacker the bearings.
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stevo
WFO Team Player
Posts: 118
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Post by stevo on Jun 19, 2012 15:17:20 GMT
Yea, the bench saw we've used is amazing, i've used it for so many things through the house & garden - it's went through metres & metres of 18mm solid oak flooring, countless fenceposts, sleepers... Going from this picture. Attachments:
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stevo
WFO Team Player
Posts: 118
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Post by stevo on Jun 19, 2012 15:18:13 GMT
To this one... New houses are great, but the builders don't half leave you with a crappy garden! Stevo Attachments:
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Post by turkey on Jun 20, 2012 8:18:05 GMT
it does seem to be the new build way, keen to apply designer everything to the build and show internals and outside gets turf if your licks but no sign of a landscape gardener to help design what is really the largest room.
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Post by bookemdanno on Jun 20, 2012 12:21:23 GMT
Does it drain rainwater okay? That "drainage" photo brought back many old landscaping memories... Reason being, many building firms will strip the topsoil, build the houses through the poorest of weather and the constant footfalls along with machinery compacts the subsoil, which invariably has a clay content. Then the topsoil is replaced over the compacted subsoil and half bricks, empty mastic tubes, isulation off cuts, etc without the compacted subsoil being broken up first. The compacted layer then acts as a pond liner basically, for years until planting gets suitably established to break down the compacted layer, and in some extreme cases the Landscape Gardeners who get called in to help (as once i did) have to strip the garden once again, break up the compaction and start again!!!!
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