jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Jul 18, 2012 13:43:19 GMT
So I now have replaced the brick arch across the front and added the first layer of render over the vermicrete. The arch was tricky as although I made a three centred arch mould out of MDF which roughly followed the oven door shape as well, after my third brick I could tell I was not bringing the angle in acute enough and would not sit on top of the mould. Therefore I stopped the build and let it dry, removed the arch mould, shaved off hte corners to where I had already built and then propped it up again by about 1cm which allowed the top bricks to sit across the top of the mould. Now all I have left is another coloured render over the top and I am all done - using a product called k-rend which is also silicone based so has silicone waterproofing agent added. I also managed to plant a chunk of my herbs behind the retaining wall with the ones I will use more often at the front so I can just reach over and cut and drop into any cooking Attachments:
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Tom B
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Post by Tom B on Jul 18, 2012 16:25:49 GMT
Very nice job ;D
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Post by cannyfradock on Jul 30, 2012 15:12:13 GMT
Love the commitment into "getting it right".....love the new arch.
Please let us know how you got on with the "K-rend"....there's lots of talk about this product but not many people have used it.
Terry
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Jul 30, 2012 15:31:56 GMT
Thanks Terry. Your email just popped in which reminded me I hadnt posted any updates. We are so pleased we changed the arch as it does look much more part of the oven now rather than dropped on top where it was before. Attached is the first scratch coat using the K-rend. I used this on the back of the retaining wall as well as a test. To be honest there was a lot of trial and error. The suggested mix is basically one 25kg bag with 5 litres of water. Whilst this does mix and can be applied, the result is very gritty and I struggled to get it to bond and stay in place, with large amounts of waste dropping off the trowel and wall. Plus it seems to dry really quickly at this mix and you need to work fast - something I struggled with !!! Adding upto another litre of water really helps, and makes the mix much more useable and able to spread and smooth as long as you are happy it extends the drying period obviously. Another pic to follow... Attachments:
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Jul 30, 2012 19:53:02 GMT
And the final render in place. To make sure this was smooth (...and perfect) I had this professionally plastered. He quite likes the K-Rend product and said it is really good due to the added silicone in the mix which acts as a really strong barrier in the wet and winter...to the point where he doesnt think I really need to worry about covering the oven in the winter but did caveat that he hasnt covered an oven with it before I hope to have the gazebo down in the next day and can then start tidying up so will post final pictures within the next day or so. Attachments:
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Jul 30, 2012 19:54:25 GMT
...and from the side. Now just the cleaning and tidying up to do and scraping all the dust and mortar splats off the patio etc. Attachments:
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Jul 31, 2012 8:06:20 GMT
Final pic with the gazebo removed. Hopefully I can now use the rain over the next few days to clean all the mess from the patio and then attack the mortar stains in the front of the k-rend walling...possibly with small amounts of brick acid to help it along Attachments:
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Post by bookemdanno on Jul 31, 2012 12:52:43 GMT
wow, that looks amazing! Well done!
If that's natural stone paving i'd not use Acid to clean the mortar stains, it can ruin it completely. Its pretty harsh stuff. You'll find that a product more suited to natural tiles, and removing grout stains, will do the job, but i'd definitely test an area or a spare slab first. Remove as much as you can simply by scraping lightly and a wire brush by hand. Either way, you will find that the staining will fade in time anyway.
I have a Black Limestone paving pointed with Hydraulic Lime, which envariably ended up with some staining. I used a wire cup brush on a drill. (DON'T DO THIS), it took the surface off too much, but over the course of one Winter and Summers rain, all but the worst staining has gone. I'd put it down to the fact that all rain is going to have a more acidic Ph to the Lime, neutralising it like muratic acid does, but not as harshly. Cement pointing and staining should react in a similar fashion.
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Post by cannyfradock on Jul 31, 2012 14:02:18 GMT
Wow jwyno......Amazing build ......and that last picture is stunning. May I post that last pic to my followers on twitter?
Terry
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Aug 2, 2012 9:31:57 GMT
Thanks both.
I have to say we are really pleased. Only thing I would do differently is have the fire another 3-4 inches higher but I got my concrete slab the wrong depth and carried on before realising it was lower than planned, but we are still really happy.
I was there last night in the rain, moving the fire around the oven with a beer in one hand and the temperature gun in the other smiling like a madman ;D
In regards the acid, I did mean more for the K-Rend walling to clean that up as the slate patio has more dust and general dirt rather than mortar, but without really thinking about it, anything wet on the wall will end up on the patio so I will take your suggestion.
In fact, the K-Rend itself is apparently quite universal and the plasterer who finished the outside of the oven said if you have any left, as it has colour pigment in the premix, you can make a really wet mix and then almost paint it onto the existing K-Rend and you should get an almost perfect colour match. Consequently I will try that on a test area first and feedback how successful it is.
And Terry - please feel free to use any pictures as needed.
James
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twobecks
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Cooking like a mad man
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Post by twobecks on Sept 14, 2012 17:50:57 GMT
Great build James!! I might try the K-Rend on my Veneto, thanks for sharing your experience :-)
Steve
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Apr 18, 2013 13:17:48 GMT
My oven has been uncovered through winter, so as others have commented, I also have frost damage although mostly in the supporting walls rather than the actual oven, but I do have maybe 3-4 small cracks eminating from the base of the chimney flue as well. With the surround, if you can see in the picture, the slabs went on last after the initial K-rend had been done which left about 1cm of mortar above the K-rend. So i think but not 100%, but water has got through the bare mortar and behind the K-rend before freezing and pushing this off the wall. The slabs are also loose so I think the best option is to remove the slabs, remove as much of the K-rend off the top of the wall, replace the slabs and then redo the K-rend as cleanly as possible upto the base of the slabs and covering all the mortar. As the K-rend has silicon in the mix, everywhere else has been fine, except the chimey, so hopefully this will sort it for the future. I may also use a small bead of the Vitcas heat sealant for extra protection. In regards the chimney cracks, I plan to widen these (I cant remember the name of the tool but others have mentioned it on this forum) and then refill them so its nice and clean again for the summer - assuming the summer ever arrives Attachments:
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Apr 18, 2013 13:18:30 GMT
Picture of the crack from the chimey also...sorry I couldnt get both pics in the one post Attachments:
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Post by bookemdanno on Apr 18, 2013 20:19:23 GMT
Yep, you're getting water track the underside of the slabs and penetrate the joint between K-rend and Slab, add a decent minus number at night, then pop, off comes the render.
If you can, cut a groove in the underside of the slabs to create a drip point.
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jwyno
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Post by jwyno on Apr 22, 2013 18:34:44 GMT
Thanks for the info in regards the groove but I dont think I have enough depth in my overhang to allow this to be cut without buying and replacing the existing slate slabs.
The rest of the build and all other area's are fine with no other visible damage or damp so I am hoping it is purely the fact I added the slate last after the initial rend was done and consequently leaving the extra 1cm of mortar which allowed the water in. This is the only place where the slate went on after the rend so with luck the silicon base in the K-rend will be sufficient for the next cold spell.
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